Add GoatCounter analytics, Miniflux, and update CLAUDE.md

- Add self-hosted GoatCounter via systemd binary service (stats.monotrope.au)
- Add Miniflux RSS reader via Docker Compose (reader.monotrope.au)
- Extend Ansible playbook with goatcounter and miniflux tags; all provisioning is idempotent
- Add Caddy reverse proxy blocks for both new services
- Inject GoatCounter script in baseof.html (production builds only)
- Add goatcounter and miniflux Makefile targets
- Rewrite CLAUDE.md to reflect actual project state

Co-Authored-By: Claude Sonnet 4.6 <noreply@anthropic.com>

site/layouts/_default/list.html

@@ -1,10 +1,17 @@
 {{ define "main" }}
-<h2 class="page-heading">{{ .Title }}</h2>
+<p class="section-label">{{ .Title | lower }}</p>
 <ul class="post-list">
   {{ range .Pages.ByDate.Reverse }}
   <li>
     <time datetime="{{ .Date.Format "2006-01-02" }}">{{ .Date.Format "2006-01-02" }}</time>
-    <a href="{{ .Permalink }}">{{ .Title }}</a>
+    <div class="post-entry">
+      <a href="{{ .RelPermalink }}">{{ .Title }}</a>
+      {{ with .Params.tags }}
+      <div class="tags">
+        {{ range . }}<a class="tag" href="/tags/{{ . | urlize }}/">{{ . }}</a>{{ end }}
+      </div>
+      {{ end }}
+    </div>
   </li>
   {{ end }}
 </ul>