Add GoatCounter analytics, Miniflux, and update CLAUDE.md

- Add self-hosted GoatCounter via systemd binary service (stats.monotrope.au)
- Add Miniflux RSS reader via Docker Compose (reader.monotrope.au)
- Extend Ansible playbook with goatcounter and miniflux tags; all provisioning is idempotent
- Add Caddy reverse proxy blocks for both new services
- Inject GoatCounter script in baseof.html (production builds only)
- Add goatcounter and miniflux Makefile targets
- Rewrite CLAUDE.md to reflect actual project state

Co-Authored-By: Claude Sonnet 4.6 <noreply@anthropic.com>

site/layouts/_default/single.html

@@ -1,9 +1,17 @@
 {{ define "main" }}
 <article>
   <h1>{{ .Title }}</h1>
-  <p class="post-meta">
+  <div class="post-meta">
     <time datetime="{{ .Date.Format "2006-01-02" }}">{{ .Date.Format "2 January 2006" }}</time>
-  </p>
+    {{ with .ReadingTime }}<span>{{ . }} min read</span>{{ end }}
+  </div>
   {{ .Content }}
+  {{ with .Params.tags }}
+  <div class="post-footer">
+    <div class="tags">
+      {{ range . }}<a class="tag" href="/tags/{{ . | urlize }}/">{{ . }}</a>{{ end }}
+    </div>
+  </div>
+  {{ end }}
 </article>
 {{ end }}